Brazil · Maranhão · Lençóis Maranhenses · São Luís · Barreirinhas · Atins · 9 min read
5 days · 3 cities
Duration
5 days
Estimated budget
R$2,200 to 3,500 per person, excl. flights
Best time to go
May to September, lagoons full
Visa
No visa for US, UK or EU (90 days)
This Lençóis Maranhenses itinerary covers 5 days, starting and ending in São Luís and sleeping in Barreirinhas and Atins. The decision that shapes it is using the Preguiças River boat trip as the route, and leaving Atins for the end, with the quietest village and the shrimp at Canto.
In short: historic São Luís, Lagoa Bonita, the Preguiças River, Lagoa Azul and Atins. Lagoon season, transport and food are at the end.

One hour, free. The airport is 15 km from the centre by taxi or ride app. After check-in, head down to Praia Grande, the UNESCO-listed historic centre, and start on Rua Portugal, with the largest group of townhouses faced in Portuguese tiles.
Wear trainers: the slopes are stone and slippery in the rain.

Half an hour, on the corner of Rua da Estrela. The old grain store is now the Praia Grande market, with stalls of buriti sweets, cachaça, tiquira, the cassava spirit of Maranhão, and dried shrimp. It is the place to try Guaraná Jesus.
Forty-five minutes, free guided tour Tuesday to Saturday, 2 pm to 6 pm. Walk 400 metres up to Rua do Sol. The 1817 theatre reopened in 2026 after its biggest restoration in 30 years, with its horseshoe auditorium and boxes restored.

Four hours, from 120 reais with an agency, leaving at 1:30 pm. The shared van from São Luís takes about 4h30 and costs 70 to 120 reais; leave at 7 am to make it. The 4x4 crosses the river by ferry and follows a sand track to the foot of a steep dune, climbed with a rope.
From the top dozens of lagoons appear. The tour ends at sunset; glass and litter are not allowed in the park.

Half an hour in the evening, free. The parish church square is a few steps from the Beira-Rio, the Preguiças riverfront, where restaurants and kiosks serve fried fish and cajá caipirinhas.

Forty-five minutes. The speedboat tour leaves the Barreirinhas quay at 9 am, for about 190 reais, and runs down the Preguiças River through mangroves. The first stop is Vassouras, with dunes, shallow lagoons and capuchin monkeys that come down from the trees. Do not feed them.

An hour and a quarter, with a small climbing fee paid at the entrance. The striped lighthouse stands in the village of Mandacaru. From the top you see the river meet the sea, with dunes on both sides. On the way down, the village stalls sell buriti sweets and straw crafts.

Two hours. Caburé is a strip of sand with the river on one side and the ocean on the other. Lunch is not included: fish and shrimp for two run about 160 reais. The boat returns to Barreirinhas mid-afternoon.
Four hours, from 120 reais, leaving at 8 am. It is the shortest and busiest circuit, with Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Esmeralda, and mornings are quieter. The lagoons are full from May to September; from October they start drying out.

Three hours, from 140 reais with the 4x4. The transfer from Barreirinhas to Atins takes about 1h30 by 4x4 along the beach and dunes; arrange it with your guesthouse. At Canto do Atins the dunes meet the sea, and the tour passes lagoons before stopping at one of the grilled shrimp restaurants, the local speciality.

One hour, free, at 6 am. The beach is wide and shallow at low tide, and from July to December the wind brings the kitesurfers. With an extra day, take the scarlet ibis tour to see the red birds of the mangrove at dusk.

One hour, free, Tuesday to Sunday until 5 pm. The 4x4 to Barreirinhas and the van to São Luís add up to about 6 hours; leave Atins at 7 am. The palace shows 19th century furniture, paintings and porcelain, and its windows look over São Marcos Bay.

Twenty minutes, free, next to the palace on Avenida Pedro II. The baroque gilded altarpiece is the highlight. The airport is 15 km away, with flights south in the early evening.
May to September, when the lagoons are full after the January to April rains. July and August have the highest water and the high season; June and September are the sweet spot. From October to December the lagoons drop and many dry up, though those around Santo Amaro last into October.
January to April is very wet and some 4x4 tracks flood. Strong winds blow from July to December, good for kitesurfing in Atins.
Fly into São Luís, with connections from São Paulo, Brasília or Fortaleza; visitors from the US, the UK and the EU need no visa for Brazil for stays up to 90 days. Commercial flights to Barreirinhas have been suspended since March 2025 while the airport is upgraded. From São Luís to Barreirinhas is 260 km: shared van, 70 to 120 reais, about 4h30.
Inside the park you only move by licensed 4x4 or on foot: ordinary cars sink in the sand. There is no park entry fee. Since May 2026 ICMBio requires a guide for groups of up to 10 and advance booking on multi-day treks, and bans glass and campfires across the park.
The cooking is fish, shrimp and crab with rice and cassava flour. In Barreirinhas, the riverfront restaurants serve fish for two; in Atins, the dish is grilled shrimp at Canto do Atins. What to avoid is counting on lunch inside the dunes, which does not exist: bring water and snacks on the 4x4 circuits.

Arroz de cuxá is Maranhão’s dish: rice with vinagreira, a sour leaf, sesame, cassava flour and dried shrimp. In São Luís it comes with fried fish and torta de camarão, a shrimp bake.

Guaraná Jesus is a pink soda tasting of clove and cinnamon, created in São Luís in 1920. For the evening, try tiquira, the cassava spirit, and a cajá caipirinha.
They are enough for the essentials: São Luís, two lagoon circuits from Barreirinhas, the Preguiças River and Atins. What does not fit is Santo Amaro, the base inside the park, with Lagoa das Emendadas and lagoons that stay full longer, which needs two more days.
Left out and worth more days: the three-day walking trek across the dunes; a small-plane scenic flight; Lagoa da Lua near Atins; and the Rota das Emoções, which carries on to the Parnaíba Delta and Jericoacoara.
For more Brazilian nature, see our Foz do Iguaçu itinerary. Save this itinerary on Galmund to fit the days to your calendar.
Prices checked on 28 September 2026. Check current prices at ICMBio, Lençóis Maranhenses National Park · Ibram, Palácio dos Leões.
Between 2,200 and 3,500 reais per person, about 400 to 650 dollars, excluding flights, staying in a guesthouse double room: food, the vans between São Luís and Barreirinhas, the 4x4 to Atins, two lagoon circuits, Canto do Atins and the Preguiças River boat.
Lagoa Bonita has the finest view, from the top of a tall dune, and ends at sunset; Lagoa Azul is shorter, easier and busier. With one day, choose Lagoa Bonita; with two, do both.
July and August, with the highest water, though also the high season. June and September have full lagoons and fewer people. From October the Barreirinhas lagoons drop; those at Santo Amaro last longer.
For the lagoon circuits, in practice yes: only licensed 4x4s can enter. Multi-day treks require a guide, with no more than 10 people per group, and advance booking, under ICMBio rules from May 2026. There is no park entry fee.
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