Sicily Itinerary 6 Days: Catania, Etna, Taormina, Syracuse and Noto

Forty-five minutes, free entry to the nave. The airport is 7 km from the centre, and the Alibus gets you there in 25 minutes. After check-in, start at Piazza del Duomo: the Elephant Fountain, carved in lava stone, is the symbol of the city.

The cathedral was rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake that flattened the southeast of the island, which is why Catania is baroque and black and white: Etna lava with pale limestone.

Forty minutes, 7 euros, open every day. The church stands right next to the cathedral on Via Vittorio Emanuele. A lift and about 50 more steps take you to the terraces and the dome, with the whole centre, the sea and, on a clear day, Etna in view.

One hour, 8 euros, until 7 pm (last entry 6:30 pm). Walk 400 metres west along Via Vittorio Emanuele. The 2nd century theatre was swallowed by the city, and houses were built on and around the seating, which still peeks out between the windows.

The smaller Odeon is next door, on the same ticket.

Twenty minutes, free. The street starts at Piazza San Francesco, right across from the theatre exit, and climbs north under the San Benedetto arch past four churches in a row. In the evening, carry on to Via Etnea for an aperitivo.

Four hours up top. The AST bus leaves Catania central station once a day in the morning and reaches Rifugio Sapienza, at 1,920 m, in about two hours; it returns in the afternoon. The cable car climbs to 2,500 m for 54 euros return; with 4x4 and guide to about 2,750 m it costs 78 euros.

Bring a jacket and closed shoes even in summer: it is 15 degrees colder up there. In strong wind the cable car closes, so check the Funivia website in the morning. The summit craters are only reachable with a volcanological guide.

One hour, free, next to the Rifugio Sapienza car park. These craters date from the 1892 eruption, and the path loops all the way round the rim over red and black ash. It is the perfect way to wait for the bus back.

Two hours in the morning. The train from Catania to Taormina-Giardini station takes about 50 minutes and costs a few euros; from there it is a 20 minute walk along the shore to Mazzarò bay. The beach is pebbles, so bring water shoes.

The islet is a nature reserve with a paid entry to the garden of Florence Trevelyan’s former house; crossing the pebble strip is free.

An hour and a half, 14 euros, daily until 7:45 pm. Ride the cable car up from Mazzarò to Via Pirandello and walk 5 minutes to Via Teatro Greco. It is the second largest ancient theatre in Sicily, and the gap in the stage frames Etna and the bay of Naxos.

On the first Sunday of the month entry is free and the theatre is packed.

Forty-five minutes, free. From Porta Messina, Corso Umberto crosses the centre on foot to Piazza IX Aprile, the terrace over the sea with San Giuseppe church. If you have the legs, the stairs climb to Castelmola in 30 minutes; the bus back to the station leaves from Via Pirandello.

One hour, 7 am to 1 pm, Monday to Saturday. It sits behind Piazza del Duomo, down the steps by the Amenano fountain. Fishmongers shout prices over stalls of swordfish, tuna and sea urchin, and the trattorias around it serve the catch of the day at lunch.

An hour and a half, 14 euros. The train from Catania to Syracuse takes about 1h15; from the station it is a 20 minute walk to the park entrance on Viale Paradiso. The 5th century BC theatre was cut into the rock, and from May to July it still hosts a season of Greek tragedies.

Drop your bag at the hotel first, or use the station left luggage.

Twenty minutes, same ticket. The 23 metre high cave is in the Paradise quarry, a few steps from the theatre. Clap inside: the echo explains the legend of the tyrant who eavesdropped on his prisoners. Then take a taxi, or walk 25 minutes, to Ortigia for check-in.

One hour, Monday to Saturday, until about 1 pm. The stalls fill Via De Benedictis near the bridge: fish, marinated olives, sun-dried tomatoes, cheese and fruit. Several stalls make sandwiches on the spot with what they sell.

Fifteen minutes, free, seen from outside. The columns of the 6th century BC Doric temple stand on Largo XXV Luglio, a block from the market. It is the oldest Doric temple in Sicily.

Forty-five minutes, paid entry at the ticket office on the square. Walk down Via Cavour to Piazza Duomo. Outside, a baroque facade; inside, the Doric columns of the 5th century BC Temple of Athena still hold up the nave.

Twenty minutes, free, 300 metres south of the cathedral. The freshwater spring rises a few metres from the sea, in a pool planted with papyrus. It is the best sunset spot on the Lungomare Alfeo.

An hour and a half, 6 euros, Tuesday to Saturday until 7 pm; Sunday and Monday it closes at 1:30 pm. Frederick II’s castle seals the southern end of the island. After lunch, go through the courtyard to the Gothic hall of columns and out onto the walls above the sea.

Fifteen minutes. The train from Syracuse to Noto takes about 30 minutes; from the station, walk up 15 minutes to the Porta Reale arch, where Corso Vittorio Emanuele begins. The whole town was rebuilt from scratch after the 1693 earthquake.

Forty-five minutes. The Cathedral of San Nicolò stands at the top of its staircase, halfway along the Corso. The dome collapsed in 1996 and was rebuilt; the golden limestone facade is the picture of Noto.

Half an hour. Walk up Via Corrado Nicolaci, just west of the cathedral, and look up: the balconies rest on stone horses, lions and mermaids. Take the train back to Syracuse in the early afternoon and the Interbus coach to Catania airport, about 1h15.