Mauritius itinerary 7 days: the north, Chamarel and Le Morne

From the airport to the north is about 1 hour 15 minutes by car. After checking in at Grand Baie, Pereybere public beach, 5 minutes away, is the best one for the first afternoon: a calm lagoon protected by the reef, fine sand and food stalls on the street behind. Allow an hour and a half.

Ten minutes north, the red roofed chapel of Cap Malheureux sits at the water’s edge, facing the islet of Coin de Mire. It is the best known shot of the north; arrive before sunset and allow 40 minutes.

Arrive at 9:00, 25 minutes from Grand Baie, ahead of the heat and the coaches. The 18th century garden, one of the oldest in the southern hemisphere, has the giant water lily pond, talipot palms that flower once in their lifetime, a giant tortoise pen and avenues of spice trees. Two hours is enough; licensed guides wait at the gate, and tickets are sold at the entrance.

Fifteen minutes north, in Triolet, the Maheswarnath Mandir is the largest Hindu temple on the island, where nearly half the population is Hindu. Take off your shoes at the entrance, cover shoulders and knees and allow 40 minutes. The afternoon is free for Mont Choisy beach or a catamaran trip from Grand Baie.

Leave Grand Baie at 8:00 to beat the traffic and park at the Caudan. The covered market opens early: fruit, chillies, herbal teas sold as remedies and, at the entrance, the dholl puri stalls and alouda, the iced drink of milk, basil seeds and agar. One hour; bring cash.

Three minutes away on foot, Aapravasi Ghat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site: from 1849 most of the roughly half a million indentured workers brought, mainly from India, to the cane fields after the end of slavery passed through this depot. Free entry, one hour, with an interpretation centre next door.

Across the avenue, the Caudan waterfront has the colourful umbrella walkway, craft shops and restaurants for lunch. Then Flic en Flac is 35 minutes away along the west coast road.

After check in, Flic en Flac public beach, long and lined with casuarinas, is the one for late afternoon: the west coast is the driest side of the island and has the sunset over the sea. At weekends Mauritian families picnic in the shade.

Start at the highest point of the itinerary: 40 minutes from Flic en Flac, in Curepipe, the crater of a dormant volcano has a path around its rim with views over the plateau and the peaks. Free; 40 minutes, and bring a jacket, since it rains and blows more up here.

Twenty minutes south, Ganga Talao, in a crater, is the most sacred place of Mauritian Hinduism, with temples on the shore and giant statues of Shiva and Durga at the entrance. Free; cover shoulders and knees and watch out for the monkeys. In February or March, at the Maha Shivaratri festival, pilgrims walk here from all over the island.

On the Plaine Champagne road, the Gorges Viewpoint shows the national park valley, covered in native forest, running down to the sea. Twenty minutes, free, with parking by the road.

Ten minutes further, among cane fields, the distillery makes agricultural rum from fresh cane juice and runs a guided tour with tasting of about 40 minutes, plus the restaurant that is the best lunch stop of the day. Allow an hour and a half; whoever is driving should only sip.

Inside the geopark, the first viewpoint shows the Chamarel waterfall, about 100 metres high, dropping from a basalt wall. Twenty minutes; the light is best in the early afternoon.

Further along the same internal road, the volcanic earth dunes in bands of red, brown, violet and yellow are fenced off and seen from a walkway. The same ticket includes the waterfall, the garden and the giant Aldabra tortoises. One hour; the geopark closes around 17:00.

Start at 7:00, 35 minutes from Flic en Flac. The 556 metre mountain was a refuge for escaped enslaved people and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The climb takes three to four hours return; the lower part is open, but the final section, with rock scrambling, is done with a licensed guide. Book ahead and do not start after 9:00 because of the heat.

An hour along the southern road, in Souillac, Gris Gris shows the other side of the island: with no reef, the Indian Ocean waves hit the cliffs directly. It is not a swimming beach. Walk for 45 minutes on the clifftop lawn and the path to La Roche qui Pleure; Mahébourg is then 40 minutes away.

After check in, the promenade of the old capital, facing Grand Port bay, is the walk for the end of the day, with fishing boats and gateaux piments sellers. On Mondays the market fills the town centre.

The islet only takes guided visits by the Mauritian Wildlife Foundation, which leave from Pointe Jérôme, 10 minutes from Mahébourg, and last one and a half to two hours. It is home to giant Aldabra tortoises, the pink pigeon and geckos found only in Mauritius, in a restored native forest. Book on the foundation’s website.

An hour’s drive north, at Trou d’Eau Douce, boats take 15 minutes to Ile aux Cerfs, with white beaches and shallow water. Agree the return time with the boatman before boarding and walk away from the jetty, where the sand is empty. It gets busy at weekends; weekdays are better.

Start at 8:30 on Blue Bay beach, 10 minutes from Mahébourg. Glass bottom boats leave from the sand and stop over the marine park’s corals for snorkelling; agree the price before setting off. Two hours.

On the way back, the French colonial mansion holds relics of the 1810 naval Battle of Grand Port, won by France in front of this bay, and of the colonial era. One hour, free entry. The airport is 15 minutes away.