Istria 6 Day Itinerary: Pula, Rovinj and Croatia's Truffle Country

10 euros, 90 minutes, open into the evening from April to September. It is the first stop after check in, ten minutes on foot from the centre.

Built in the 1st century for about 20,000 spectators, it is one of the six largest surviving Roman amphitheatres and the only one with all four side towers intact. Go down to the underground galleries, where there is an exhibition on the olive oil and wine of ancient Istria. In summer the Arena hosts concerts and the Pula Film Festival; on those days it closes earlier.

Free, 15 minutes, 600 metres from the Arena. The 1st century BC arch marked the old city gate, and from it runs Sergijevaca, the pedestrian street through the old town to the Forum. James Joyce lived nearby in 1904; there is a statue of him at a café on the square.

Free square and a small museum in the temple with a cheap ticket, 45 minutes, at the end of Sergijevaca. The Roman temple has stood since the 1st century beside the medieval town hall, and the Forum is still Pula's main square.

Have dinner around here: options are in the where to eat section. At night, from the waterfront, watch the Uljanik shipyard cranes lit up in colour.

Car entry of 10 euros outside high summer and 20 euros from mid June to mid September; free on foot or by bike. Allow 2h30, 25 minutes from Pula.

The protected cape has 30 kilometres of undeveloped coast, with smooth rock coves and clear water for swimming and snorkelling. Go early: the dirt roads fill up after 11am in summer. Bring water shoes, as there are no sandy beaches.

Free, 30 minutes, on the way to Rovinj, 15 minutes from Pula. St Blaise's Church has the tallest bell tower in Istria, and the sacristy holds the mummified bodies of saints, visited with a separate ticket.

Free, 30 minutes, 15 minutes from Rovinj. The stone lanes run in rings around the Soardo-Bembo castle, and it sees far fewer visitors than Motovun. From here, head to the 2pm check in in Rovinj.

The church is free and the bell tower climb has a cheap ticket, 90 minutes with the walk. Climb through the old town in the late afternoon and stay for sunset, which in Rovinj falls over the sea.

The baroque church holds the sarcophagus of St Euphemia, which according to tradition floated into town in the year 800. From the 60 metre bell tower, up a narrow wooden staircase, you see the whole town and the islands. Rovinj is your base for the next four days.

Free at the viewpoint, 90 minutes with lunch, 15 minutes from Rovinj. The 10 kilometre inlet cuts inland between wooded slopes, and at its head there are oyster and mussel farms.

Stop at the roadside viewpoint, then drive down to the head of the fjord, where restaurants serve oysters opened to order. In summer, boats leave Rovinj harbour for trips along the fjord.

14 euros, 45 minutes with a guide, open only from April to October. It is 25 minutes from the Lim Fjord, on the way to Poreč.

The tour descends 60 metres through five chambers of stalactites and stalagmites, at 14 degrees all year. Bring a light jacket. Next door there is an exhibition of old Istrian tractors.

10 euros, plus about 4 euros for the bell tower, 90 minutes with the old town. It is 15 minutes from Baredine and it is Istria's only World Heritage Site.

The 6th century complex keeps gold ground Byzantine mosaics in the apse from the same era as those in Ravenna. Afterwards, walk down the Decumanus, Poreč's main Roman street, to the sea. Head back to Rovinj for dinner.

Free, 90 minutes, about 45 minutes from Rovinj. Leave the car at the paid car park at the foot of the hill and walk up, about 15 minutes.

The walk on the walls goes all the way round the village and looks over the Mirna valley, home to the Motovun forest, Istria's main white truffle area. It is the best known inland village and the busiest; arrive before 10am.

The most expensive meal of the trip, 90 minutes, 5 kilometres from Motovun, down in the valley. Book ahead in white truffle season, September to December.

The Zigante family entered the record books in 1999 with a 1.31 kilo white truffle found nearby. If you do not want the full menu, just visit the shop next door, with fresh truffles, olive oils and spreads. In autumn, Livade holds the white truffle fair at weekends.

Free, 90 minutes, 20 minutes from Livade. It is the inland village most people love: smaller, quieter and full of studios and galleries run by artists in the stone houses.

In summer there are concerts by the international music school. From the viewpoint behind the church the view reaches the sea. Drive back to Rovinj along the valley road, about 50 minutes.

Free, 30 minutes, 35 minutes from Rovinj. The national park boat leaves from here, and the fishing village has the nicest waterfront for a coffee before boarding.

Guided excursion of 50 euros from June to September and 35 euros the rest of the year, with boat, tourist train and guide, about 4 hours. Buy in advance from the park's online shop to secure a slot with an English speaking guide.

Veliki Brijun was the summer residence of Tito, Yugoslavia's president, who hosted heads of state and was given animals as gifts; some of their descendants still live in the island's safari park. The tour passes the ruins of a Roman villa, a Byzantine church and the exhibition of photos of Tito with famous guests. Head back to Rovinj in the late afternoon.

Free, 30 minutes. Early in the morning, before the shops open and the groups arrive, the lane up to the church is empty and the polished stones shine. Galleries and studios fill the doorways on both sides.

Free, 90 minutes, a 20 minute walk from the old town along the shore. The forest park of pines and cypresses, planted in the 19th century, has flat trails and smooth rocks for swimming.

It is the calmest way to end the trip before the drive to the airport: Pula is 40 minutes away, Trieste 1h30 and Venice about 3 hours.